Traditional Hand-woven Khandua of Nuapatna and Maniabandha -A Navigation into its Ancestry and Analyzing the Present

Social Science and Humanities

Indian traditional hand woven has a glorious past which had produced some of the exquisitely crafted fabrics mostly in the form of sarees. These sarees have been fascinating with a variety of eye catching colors and traditional motifs with some imaginative designs. They have always appealed the wealthy and royalty who used to patronize the crafts. One such craft is the hand woven “Khandua” saree painstakingly woven by the hand loom weavers of Nuapatna and Maniabandha in Cuttack district of Odisha. These Khandua sarees are woven with mulberry silk yarn and sometimes in combination with cotton or tassar yarn. The fabric is also woven with calligraphy designs taken from the famous epic of “Gita Govinda” written by famous poet Jaydev. These “Khanduas” with calligraphy designs are reverentially offered to Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and sister Subhadra at Puri Jagannath temple as a ritual by the devotees. “Khandua” is very unique not only in construction but also for its colors, motifs and layouts woven with local soul and universal appeal. Nuapatna and Maniabandha, the two villages and their adjoining areas have a long historical background of weaving typical ikat, tie-dyed cotton and silk fabrics spanning over a few centuries. Both the villages are situated in Athagarh sub division of Cuttack district in the state of Odisha. The fabrics mainly sarees, have been not only functional but also are ritualistic and artistically woven by the handloom weavers with a visual display of excellence in craftsmanship and skill brought down from generations as like any other Indian hand woven textiles. The present article is the outcome of an empirical survey made by the researchers with 200 weavers of Nuapatna and 100 weavers of Maniabandha. In course of the survey, the past is mined out and a reflection is made on the economic and social condition of the weavers. The study reaches at the conclusion that neither there is much diversification in the craft process or product, nor there is a qualitative leap in the plights of the weavers. This creates a major challenge to the sustainability of the craft and the livelihood options of the weavers in the long run and the export potential of the state.

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