SUSTENANCE IN DESIGN OF PASSAPALLI OF ODISHA ,A CASE STUDY

Textile Art

In handloom industry, there is no dearth of skills and technical expertise. There is visible scarcity of creative leadership, courage and commitment. An approach to develop new strategies based on design must clearly guide the weavers to a path that will ensure security and stability. Although textiles were the second basic need in its origin today it has become indispensable ingredient of many of the secondary needs of human. In its purest form initially, the textile was used to cover the human body to protect from environmental change and also to become social. Gradually inquisitive nature of human diversified many things within and with the textiles. Within the Textiles, creation of new designs with different color combinations and different textures came into existence. One of the interesting techniques in textile, “IKAT (yarn tie-dye)” created a classic form of fine crafts within the textiles. Since many centuries the IKAT designs has occupied a prominent place in the fashion world. The ikat technique in India is commonly known as patola in Gujarat, bandha in Orissa, pagdubandhu, buddavasi and chitki in Andhra Pradesh. In the ikat tie and dye process, the designs in various colors are formed on the fabric either by the warp threads or the weft threads or by both. The threads forming the design are tied and dyed separately to bring in the desired color and the simple interlacement of the threads produces, the most intricate designs, that appear only in the finished weaving. Among the outstanding visual attributes of Odisha ikat are fine, feathery delineation of pattern motifs, sophisticated curvilinear treatment of form and use of tonal gradation to enhance the depth. For a process that relies on the laborious tie-dyeing of yarn prior to weaving, the ability to achieve subtly outlined, curved and shaded motifs without the assistance of squared paper design can only be described as masterful and unique. The present article focuses on Passapalli design (Sakta Design) developed with Ikat technique and diversification in various handloom product. Passapalli designs is a double ikkat product, developed by the Meher community of western Odisha specially weavers of Bargarh and Subarnapur district. The study reached at the conclusion that diversification in motifs and colour of same design can help in sustenance of particular design which further preserve culture heritage.

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